As I
love to play chess, I spend many night playing 5 minutes (each) games against
immediately available and eager opponents in Tokyo, Seattle, Sidney,
Montevideo, Des Moines etc through the ChessCube.com platform trying to improve
my chess ranking, and uphill battle but it’s like an addiction and keeps the
gray matter flexible, I am told….As a chess player I understood what the
winemaker meant when he wanted to make a clear stating that blending wines is
like playing a game of chess, one makes a move which always results in a new
situation on the board and the player must wait for what the reaction will be.
Blending
goes also in stages until you reach a final product when the winemaker feels
the best expression of the house style; of the terroir of the estate, has been
reached. Blending is actually more about the house style should be recognizable
throughout the consecutive harvest, year after year, notwithstanding
differences in qualities and/or quantities, as a result of good, bad or even
disastrous harvests due to for example
early frosts, hail, drought, etc etc.
Blending
is the process of tasting, everlasting intense tasting of all the different
wines made available to the winemaker at one point in time. This does not mean
that blending the best wines will create a great wine, blending is like haute
cuisine, some ingredients are used and remain present but in a discrete way but
other will stand out, excel and shine through distinctly.
There
are many ways to blend but it is safe to say that each Chateau/wine producer
have their own tactics formed through decades sometimes centuries of
experiences, empiric observing, testing to find or better strike the perfect
balance. Balance not only in the grape selection but also in “employing” of the
right experts, equipment like presses etc., the timing, choice of cellars etc.
I would like to call this the art of blending. Namely to find, to create the
optimal circumstances to blend.
The process
of blending starts with blind tastings as the terroirs, the grapes originated
from, should be kept unknown to the tasters. As a rule tasting is done by
around 4 people, not too many organized in a strict way. Too many opinions will
lead to confusions. What tasters mainly – roughly spoken as not to get into
the nitty gritty fo the built up of different house styles, as Palmers rules of
tasting are not Giscours’ – looking at is:
·
Tasting
according to tannin; they look for finesse and subtlety, for example some
Merlots produce a lot of it;
·
The
look for complexity not power for example Cabernet Franc, it should not have a
too pronounced vegetal character;
·
Cabernet
Sauvignon which is often the dominant part of a blend, it should have
structure, acidity and focused fruit with ripe but linear tannins.
During
this process the tasters are already looking for possible combinations to work
towards the house style by selecting the combinations which blend together.
First
they select the Grand Vin, the second, the third blends. On average the total
blending process takes two to eight hours depending on the size of the relative
chateau/estate/vineyard and how many separate base wines they have made. When
they have decided on the final blend, the “finished” wine is aged for a year in
wooden barrels/barriques. They regularly test/taste and make intermediate
changes if and when so (by consensus) required…finishing touches, if you like!
Left
over wines, not any longer required for the by now required and established final
blend(s) are sold into the trade or are sold for distillation (liquors, alcohol
etc.)
Normally
the “en primeur” tastings are in April and at that time the final blend(s) will
be officially presented.
In one
of the latest developments – in the wine trade, being a seasonal agricultural
trade this means the last five years or so, it was permitted in the Medoc to
blend up to a maximum of 15% of other, earlier years vintages to blend into the
final wines. This within the existing local AOC regulations, in this example
the Medoc AOC regulations. This gave quite a stir! Some will do it, other
will not. I will spare the attentive readers the relative argumentations of the
various participants in the never to be ended discussion, but at this point in
time everybody has the freedom to do so.
This
idea is not a bad development as it enables winemakers to blend different
vintages which will complement each other and bring added freshness to an older
vintage by adding younger wines, this is
an interesting concept and also brings an extra possibility to keep conformity
in the establishment of a house style adhered to throughout the years.
The
above means of course that the tastings in April are not all “en primeur”
tastings any longer as older vintages might have been brought into the “mix”.
On the other hand Bordeaux wines are made to age anyway so “en primeur” tasting
is less important than for a commercial “en primeur” tasting of a Beaujolais
made ready for immediate shipment to Japan.
Finally
whilst writing this blog on the subject of blending I came across a German wine
proverb:
“Wer nicht ehrt
diesen Wein, verdient nicht ein Mensch zu sein”!
(One who
does not honour this wine, does not deserve to be a human being)….there are
some top blends which qualify under the “spirit” of this proverb and could
originate from the borders of the Rhine and Mosel rivers and in my book should
always be always white and young/fresh/fruity (Riesling), I am sure this choice
of taste will let this “Mensch” continue to walk freely in places like Cochem
and Bernkassel. Places where these days not only excellent wines are made but
perfect German cuisine is also very much the talk of the town.